THE SCENARIO:
Narsapur is a town in West Godavari district in Andhra Pradesh. It is famous for the crochet lace products. Lace craft was introduced in the twin Godavari districts in 1780. Lace making is said to have been first introduced by a lady namely Mrs.Macro of Scotland. Unfortunately as the time proceeds the lace artisans were exploited by the middle men, who are interested in money making and not in the lace making. The artisans were paid low wages and there amassed large amounts by exporting them to overseas. Even then there was no certainty that the women artisan would have work round the year. Employing at then women the way dependent on the orders they get from their buyers. These women artisans were deprived at this work whenever the middle men exporters were not getting the orders as their main interest was to among wealth. The middlemen had a monopoly in the entire lace business and exploited the poor artisans. The wages paid on the middlemen were meagre and not at all sufficient for their family maintenance. The work involved in making laces is voluminous, the beauty and the finishing the products manufactured is exquisite.
NEED/ RATIONALE:
There are about one lakh artisans working in lace craft at Narasapur Cluster, West Godavari District, Andhar Pradesh, currently earning Rs. 20-40 per day by practicing lace craft. Through this project the lace craft artisans can improve their skills & wages and move up in the value chain for artisans. Artisans projects can be valuable form of grassroots development for indigenous people, simultaneously serving economic and social goals. They provide income that complements with their local availability of raw materials while reinforcing ethnic identity and cultural pride. Such programs can vitalize local craftsmanship by allowing artisans to reach their maximum potential. As a designer we have an understanding of the value of traditional crafts as a heritage of the country. Handmade lace products often lose out to the market against machine made lace products due to time and cost. The craft must innovative itself to keep up with the market without losing knowledge of its traditional techniques. Often artisans who are turned into laborers results in the loss of the authenticity of the craft or in the craft dyeing out altogether. The artisans are then exploited and turn to other sectors for income.
PROJECT DETAILS:
Industree partnered with Future Ventures, 9 artisan societies and other 3 stakeholders to form a special purpose vehicle (SPV), SPV got the sanction of Skill Development Project & Setting up of Design & Resource Centre. This is a public-partnership project supported by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India.
Project aims:
- No. of artisans trained with efficient productive quality skills with full finished products.
- Turnover by the artisans as micro enterprises
- No. of artisans employed with sustainable incomes
- Gradual increase in socio economic status of artisans
PROJECT OBJECTIVE:
Develop design collections with a team of lacework artisans of Narsapur district which are sellable with gradual increase of volumes.
The project aims at creating a range of quality lace products while building on the strengths of marginalised crochet lacework craftsmen to create sustainable livelihoods and overall prosperity. It shall help the artisan to link directly with the market for the artisans.
RESEARCH QUESTIONS:
- What is the present condition of the artisans in relation to the market?
- What is the evolution of the craft?
- What is the condition of the craftsmen community?
- Why did the need for a design intervention in this sector arise?
- How does one balance the market requirements of time, cost, etc., with the craft sector?
- What are the requirements of the organization?
- What are the requirements of the craft; time, raw materials, labor requirements, skill sets, quality of craftsmanship, tools and availability of all resources?
- Which style of crochet lace is used?(bobbin lace, needle lace or netting, filet crochet, Irish crochet, reticella lace, Afghani lace,etc.)
- What are the best products that can be produced that fully optimize the skills of the craftsmen?
- How to make the craft more commercial viable?
APPROACH/ PROCESS:
- A thorough understanding of the crochet technique; its technique, material, evolution, market potential, pattern creation.
- Observation and ethnographic probe to understand the community and the artisan requirements
- Research into the history of the lace industry trends and needs; socio economic needs in the community.
- Research similar projects that have successfully completed these objectives and the organisations role in such projects
- Research on fair trade and artisan market relationship
- Market research and understanding retail requirements
- Trend analysis
- Client profile; understanding the aesthetic style of the client
- Combining existing knowledge with innovative designs
- Design iteration and product development
- Sampling ideas to ascertain the quality level and trial of product idea
- Prototyping and costing per sample and mass production
KEY CONCERNS/AIMS:
- Any development in the craft sector has to be sustainable.
- It has to address the issue of artisan and market disconnect.
- Any development has therefore to lead to economic development which benefits the community as a whole.
- It should adhere to the quality standard of the brand; both in craftsmenship and design innovation
- That there should be as many entrepreneurial /craft opportunities as possible in the design and operation.
RESOURCES:
- Access to artisans and community for primary research
- Facility for stay at community in question
- Team of artisans for product sampling and tentative costing
- Stitching unit for product sampling
- Company person of interest; who would help co-ordinate between the company and review the designs
- Raw materials for products like yarn, fabric, lace trimmings etc.
- Funds for sourcing the materials
- Designing tools: internet access for research, printing of product ideas, etc.
Reffrences:
- Books: Mason, J. Doing Qualitative Research and Gillham, B. Case Study Research and Mies, M. Lacemakers of Narsapur.
- Sites: http://www.gdwlace.com/aboutus.htm , http://www.business-standard.com/india/news/andhra%60s-lace-industry-in-doldrums/189136/
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
- Deep understanding of crochet lace craft and its possibilities
- Market requirements, trends and workings
- Enduring understanding of the workings of a craft community
- Knowledge of company artisan relationship
- Time and resource management
- Design innovation with a particular traditional technique
